Conversations of the Young

live well. fix something.

mostexerent:

COVER YOUR ASS

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

Jacket MUST cover your ASS

Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand

Jacket MUST cover your ASS

Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder

Jacket MUST cover your ASS

Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines

Jacket MUST cover your ASS

The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)

Jacket MUST cover your ASS

Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans

Jacket MUST cover your ASS

Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement

Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements

Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso

Sleeve shape & length the same
Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)

Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends
“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me
Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”

Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps

Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish

Ask tailor to pin or take measurement

Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW (this series was from back in 2010 when I wasn’t riding or doing anything for fitness):
5’7” or 168cm. Not of model height
160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings

18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’

Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

This one of the first posts I was able to find after hearing about guido on the Internet. I’m glad I found this shortly after I started getting into menswear because it got me into good habits early on.

introvert-loser:

"Have no fear of perfection - you’ll never reach it.”- Salvador Dali
“Take a lover who looks at you like maybe you are magic.”
— Frida Kahlo

introvert-loser:

"Have no fear of perfection - you’ll never reach it.”- Salvador Dali

Take a lover who looks at you like maybe you are magic.
— Frida Kahlo

(via neontits)